The variety and types of belt grinders available today is tremendous.  Without a doubt each individual has his/her favorite machine.  Although all are very good, we always wish that we could make them do more, or modify them to better fit how we each do things in our shop(s).
  I have used every grinder out there at one time or another, and have chosen the Wilton square wheel as my favorite.  The most attractive feature for me is the ease and speed of changing attachments.  As it comes from the factory or dealer, there are a few draw backs that can be irritating to a knifemaker.  Below are a few modification I have made to increase versatility and production in my shop.

  The machine is set up to run either 110VAC or 220VAC.  As delivered it is set up to run at 110VAC, I highly recommend setting it up to run on 220VAC.  There is a world of difference in the power and smoothness of the machine from 110 to 220.(my machine had change over instructions located inside the switch housing)

1. IF YOU DID NOT PURCHASE A VARIABLE SPEED MACHINE.............GET A "SLOW DOWN" DRIVE PULLEY.  As if comes from the factory, the Wilton Square Wheel has a 10" drive pulley that runs the machine at 4600 SFPM (surface feet per minute)  Before they were offered commercially, I had one made at a local machine shop. Mine is 7" dia, and slowed the belt speed down to 2950 SFPM.  By slowing the machine down, it may seem at first that your progress is very slow, but your grinds will come out much nicer, and you'll get a lot more mileage out of your belts!
2. Next we turn to modification of the flat platen attachment.  As it come from the factory, and with the way the platen attachment is cast, there is simply not enough room or tracking adjustment to allow one to create plunge cuts on the left side of the platen (as you are facing the machine)
  It took me a while to work this one out, but the solution is a simple fix.  I created a platen that bolts onto the existing platen.  These "add on" platens are nothing more than a piece of  1/4"x2"x whatever length you want (up to the original 8") that the belt "rides" over.  This will give you plenty of room for plunge cuts.  In the photos below you can see how I drilled two holes in the casting, and use two socket head bolts (10-24 thread) to secure the "add on" platen.  The easy way to do this is to remove the contact wheels and use a set of vise grips to drill the holes for threading, and then enlarge the holes in the casting to accept the socket head bolts.
3.  For those who were paying close attention to the photos above, the platen may have seemed shorter than it should be........This brings us to one of the best improvements.  Remove 2" at the bottom of the factory platen casting.  This gives an area that is ideal for Convex grinding.  Here is a better view....
Platens can be made in different lengths, for various applications.  Like...
PLEASE...forget about the graphite/'s junk...I tried it, hated it, and have since used nothing but glass/pryoceram for platen faces.
Below is a close up view of the setup I use for convex grinding.  It's easy to get carried away and use too much nice and easy is the key!  You can control the amount of convex with a combination of belt tension, and the amount of pressure you apply to your work piece.
I seldom use the 8" wheel, with the exception of profiling blades. The long flat platen, I use for flattening, and tapering, the shorter platen is used for convex grinding.
  If you have made modifications, and are willing to share your ideas, let me know, and we'll add them to this page.
NOTE:  Since first writing this article, I have trashed the idea of using Graphite canvas for a platen backing.   This material wears too quickly, causing uneven grinds and just general mayhem.  I now use "pyro-ceram"  or tempered glass on all my platens .  The platen MUST be flat, and the glue used to attach the glass able to withstand heat (I use AccraGlass) but it will improve your blade grinding 10 fold

NOTEThis is an old article. Since producing it, Wilton was bought out by Jet Tools.  Since then, prices for pats have gone sky high, with Jet Tools being the ONLY SOURCE for most parts.  This has led to fewer and fewer of these grinders being out there on the second hand market, again, making used ones scarce, and parts even harder/more expensive to obtain.  The ONLY source that I am currently aware of that offers the "Slow Down" drive wheels similar to the one I used in this article is Tru-Grit.  If that source dries up, the only option would be to have a 7 1/4"-7 1/2" wheel custom made at a machine shop.  I recently sold what was left of my Wilton Square Wheel grinder for parts, and now use KMG grinders from Beaumont Metal works.
Copyright 2022: "The Montana Bladesmith"

This page is OLD,  it has remained on my website as a service to anyone looking for information on the Wilton Square Wheel Grinders.   Some time ago, Wilton merged with Jet Tools, and since that time, the Square Wheel grinder, as well as parts, have become somewhat scarce, and for whatever reasons are stupid expensive.

   I have sold my Wilton Square Wheel grinder, and all the remaining parts for these type of grinders/machine.   I no longer own or use these grinders.

  That being said, a lot of people read this page, and contact me, asking to buy parts.
I DO NOT STOCK OR SELL PARTS for these machines. 

The best information I can offer, if you're searching for parts, is do a google/internet search.  The sad fact is that while you will be able to find parts, be prepared for sticker shock!  Any part for these grinders is stupid expensive.
Unless you have an overwhelming reason not to, my advice is to go with another grinder.  Personally, I recommend
Beaumont Metal Works/KMG Grinders 

These grinders/machines are built in the USA, tougher than a tank, and are very reasonably priced for their quality.